Life
is always moving—I’ve decided I’m going to make sure it’s moving in the forward
direction.
This is going to
be a little more serious. Today, with the help of our tour guide Michael
Phillips, we toured some of the D-Day sights in Normandy. We went to, in this
order, the Gun Batterie de Longres, Omaha Beach, the Normandy American Memorial
and Cemetary, Le Pointe du Hoc, and the German Military Cemetary in La Cambe.
Today has been one of the most amazing days I’ve had on this trip.
This may seem a
little scattered, but my thoughts have been all over the place today. I’ve felt
more American than ever before. I’ve felt more part of this world and enveloped
in her history than I can recall. I’ve also felt more restricted by words than
I’d like to admit, especially as an English major.
The Gun Batterie
de Longres, our first stop, was gorgeous though besides feeling terrified and
claustrophobic in the bunker, I did not really feel the history yet. that
wasn’t until our next stop. My thoughts began deepening as we were told details
about the invasion on June 6th, 1944, as we stood on the embankment
of Omaha beach. The Allied soldiers came in early morning, at low tide, and
struggled through the half mile of wet sand, along twenty-two miles of beach,
as they made their way to land, where the defending troops watched it all,
easily picking off the Allied soldiers as they walked across the khaki beach.
About twenty-four thousand men were involved in the invasion that day. As our
tour guide pointed out after explaining how this part of the warfare went, it
is almost impossible to believe that only two thousand men that the US claimed
were killed in this part of the invasion were the only ones. The number is
already staggering but I’m led to unbelief of this claim. It had to have been
more.
I stood where
thousands of American men lost their lives, looking up at a view similar to the
one they last saw in this life. With gunfire in front of them, taking down
their friends, brothers, and fathers, and the ocean slowly pushing them forward
with the incoming tide, all they could do was advance. They pushed their way
through the heavy sand, weighed down by heavier equipment, and even heavier
feelings of excitement and fear. Spending the last three days in a boat in a
constant storm, sea-legs could not have made it any easier. Out of the worn
down men who finally made it to the rocks at the embankment where I stood, many
of their lives were taken quickly by mines and the constant fire from the
defender troops. One wrong step was one less mine for the next man. I stood only
feet from where the waves broke, facing the land as my peers faced the sea,
looking at a view similar to the one Allied soldiers last saw in this life,
thinking.
They could not
have looked at the ocean.
They could not
have looked back.
They had to have
looked forward.
The feeling at
that beach was peace. It was reverence. It was power. The feeling was faith. It
was unity. Some of my peers took pebbles from the beach as souvenirs, for the
memory, for their fathers. I did not take a pebble, or a rock, or even many
pictures. I just took that feeling.
The Normandy
American Cemetery is on American soil. In those one-hundred-seventy-two acres
of land, people are under American law and jurisdiction. These American men are
buried in American ground. Under the fresh cut grass we walked across, they
were boys. They were men. Fathers, husbands, brothers. The chapel in the middle
of the cemetery read across the top,
“These endured
all and gave all that justice among nations might prevail and that mankind
might enjoy freedom and inherit peace.”
In the front of
the cemetery was a memorial for the bodies that were never found of over
fifteen hundred men.
“Comrades in
arms whose resting place is known only to God. Here are recorded the names of
Americans who gave their lives in the service of their country and who sleep in
unknown graves. This is their memorial, the whole world their sepulchre.”
Maybe a hundred
yards further into the cemetery from this memorial was the statue of the spirit
of the American youth rising from the waves. Beneath his feet and the waves read,
“Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord.”
I wonder how many
soldiers on that day felt as though faith was the only thing that could save
them, dead or alive. I wonder how many of them found faith while they waded to their fate.
The crosses far
outnumber the stars of David in the near ten-thousand grave-markers in that
cemetery. There is no order to the burials, or at least that I was informed of,
besides a few pairs of brothers and a father and son that rest together. While
walking, I passed a group of older folks making their way through the
headstones. Age must make all the difference in a place like that.
At Le Pointe du
Hoc, we walked out to where the bunkers once stood, and where some still stand,
where defender troops spent the majority of their time. I looked out at the
same horizon they did. I stood where their boots once stood, I placed my head
in the same spot they held their helmets.
I may been in
these places where all these soldiers once were, I may have walked similar
paths of troops from America, Russia, and Germany, but I will never feel the
dirt beneath my feet as they did. I will never mimic their footsteps exactly,
or tilt my head in the same way and feel as they felt. I do not carry the
weight they carried. I have not seen what they saw, nor can I imagine it.
Our last stop
was the German Military Cemetery in La Cambe. I can honestly say this was my
favorite stop that we made. It was all stone tomb headings, with rows of trees
marking the road up to the small doorway and only entrance. Germany no longer
funds the upkeep of this cemetery so the trees are planted from donations so
the cemetery is taken care of. For every grave plot, there were one to six men
buried. Eighty percent of the men buried there were under twenty years of age.
Thirty percent of them were unknown. In the middle of the cemetery is a massive
mound of dirt, towering over the other trees in the area. It holds the body
parts of unknown soldiers, pieces of men that weren’t put together again.
Our tour guide
said that this is the true horror of warfare. You cannot blame these men for
what they did; only their regime, he said. I wonder how much they knew, how
much they were told. I wonder how they viewed it—just as we might? They were
just fighting for their country, after all.
I don’t scorn
those men. I don’t pretend to understand all of what happened at that time. I don’t
pretend to understand how the results of WWII affect me today because I was not
there and I did not see the change it made directly. I did not lose my brother, father, husband, or friends to this war. I just
know that I am grateful that I live in this time and place, privileged with the
freedoms and leisure that I am. Today, I am truly proud to be an
American.
I will try to get
pictures up at the next hotel, and if not, the next one. Tomorrow, the third of
October, is our last night in France. Then, on to Belgium and the Netherlands.
Peter, our bus driver, is almost TOO awesome. I’ll have to tell you about him
next time.
There ya go.
The companion of your mom's aunt, Betz, Keith Manbeck of Little Falls, MN - served at Omaha Beach. It's even more powerful when you know someone who was there.
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